If you happen to plan a trip to west Bali in June or July or on Sundays between July and October, then the Mekepung (bull races) held in Perancak (close to Negara) that commemorate the end of the rice harvest are a must-see.  Here, the handsomest and sleekest water buffalos are paired up, adorned in colorful silk ribbons and painted harnesses, and hitched to two-wheeled chariots commandeered by brightly clad jockeys in what is an incredibly exciting and thundering 3km race around a dirt circuit.  Major races include The Bupati's Cup held on the Sunday before Indonesian Independence Day in the town square in Negara and the prestigious Governor's Cup that takes place on a Sunday in October.

Winning is everything, and for the winning jockey it is a ticket to stardom, and perhaps a chance to become national champion. The bulls are treated with great care and are fed elaborate diets containing all sorts of wonderful potions and secret ingredients. This is a must-see for the whole family. Before the start chili paste is applied to each animal’s anus to give it that extra push. To gain speed, the jockeys twist the bulls’ tails and lash the animals’ backs with whips. Each buffalo has a pancake of red blood dots on its backside, as the jockeys often use a whip with a nail in it. Entrants are judged not only for speed, but are also awarded points for strength, color and style. These heavy, awkward-looking, normally docile animals can reach speeds of up to 60 kilometers per hour.

Admission is free and mostly locals attend the event. There are lots of food, drink and trinket sellers, fans rooting and cheering, and the betting is furious. It’s possible to attend rehearsals, trials, and competitions, and even to commission a bull race.